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This is one of the best in the region. Each room in the red-roofed buildings feels like a remote cabin -- with balconies overlooking the wooded valley, woodstoves stocked with firewood, and many unique details -- yet they're luxurious hotel rooms at a resort with a spa and fine restaurant. There are three classes of rooms with a $15 price difference between each. The middle, premium class, is halfway up the hill, with rooms separated by a divider into two parts, like a real cabin. At the top level the deluxe rooms, highest on the hill, have more of a clean, elegant feel. Bathrooms are surprisingly small in all the rooms. Currently closed off-season, most rooms fill in the summer with Princess cruise ship passengers. The cycle of the ships determines if there are rooms open for independent travelers. The lodge books guided fishing, horseback riding, tours, and other activities, and there are hiking trails nearby. An attractive 35-space RV park with full hookups is on-site, with access to the facilities.

The Eagle's Crest Restaurant has a varied and sophisticated menu, with good use of Alaskan seafood, and a light dining room that follows the hotel's generally rustic theme. Dinner main courses are $20 to $30; the lunch menu has the expected items, plus choices such as calamari and some unusual salads, generally under $10. Even if you have no reason to stay in Cooper Landing, consider planning your drive to include a meal here that will be several steps up from highway fare due to the good food and relaxing ambiance of the lodge.

© 2005, Wiley Publishing, Inc.