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The Baranof is the only lodging in Alaska with the pedigree and style to pull off the role of the old-fashioned grand hotel. Built of concrete in 1939, it served for decades as an informal branch of the state capitol. Legislators and lobbyists still confer amid the overstuffed furniture and dark wood of the opulent lobby. The structure itself constrains modernization -- the bathrooms and many rooms tend to be small -- but features such as glass doorknobs and pressed-tin ceilings remain to show that it comes by its faults honestly. The management appreciates the building's ambience, and they have kept the style intact while lightening and updating rooms over the years. The upper-floor rooms have great views on the water side, while lower rooms were redone most recently. There are many appealing suites.

The Art Deco Gold Room restaurant is Juneau's most traditional fine-dining establishment. The dining room combines intimacy and grandeur in a real showplace of shining brass, frosted glass, and rich wood. The food varies greatly in quality year to year. Most entrees are $20 to $25.

© 2005, Wiley Publishing, Inc.