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This is Alaska's most beautiful hotel. It stands on a wooded pinnacle above downtown, reached from Creek Street by a funicular. The sheer drop-off and tall rainforest trees create the lofty feeling of a treehouse in the rooms and restaurant. Perfectly proportioned buildings are executed in extraordinarily good taste. Warm wood frames complement the stunning views out of the double-hung windows. The Cape Fox Native corporation built the hotel, and the lobby and parking area are a museum of Tlingit art masterpieces, adding to the peace and rainforest spirit. Rooms are large and airy, appointed in rich-toned wood, and all but a dozen share a view of Ketchikan and the sea and islands beyond (rooms on the opposite side are $10 less). Each room has an attractively tiled bathroom.

The Heen Kahidi restaurant has one of Alaska's most attractive dining rooms, a tall, narrow rectangle of windows with a fireplace. It is a beautiful, calming place to eat. I was disappointed by the service on my last visit, but the food was good. Lunch ranges from $7 to $20; dinner main courses range from $17 to $37, with most around $25. The dining room is open from 7am to 9pm daily.

© 2005, Wiley Publishing, Inc.