Because Del Mar strives to keep a low profile, most lodgings here feel like an afterthought . . . except for prominent L'Auberge, the town's centerpiece. Sitting on the site of the historic Hotel Del Mar (1909-69), this luxurious yet intimate inn exudes an atmosphere of complete relaxation and welcome manages to attract casual weekenders as easily as the rich-and-famous horse set, who flock here during summer racing season. Guest rooms exude the elegance of a European country house, complete with marble bathrooms, architectural accents, well-placed casual seating, and the finest bed linens and appointments. Twenty-five rooms boast romantic fireplaces; all have a private balcony or terrace (several with an unadvertised view to the ocean). The hotel is across the street from Del Mar's main shopping and dining scene, and a short jog from the sand. J. Taylor's, the hotel's California/Mediterranean dining room, easily stands as one of Del Mar's finest restaurants; at the very least, don't miss its legendary breakfast huevos rancheros.