It's nearly impossible for first-time visitors to appreciate just how far Dublin has come in a very short time. Native "Dubs," however, who left years ago and returned to the "Celtic Tiger" economy, can't believe their eyes. Their beloved -- if slightly down-at-the-heels -- hometown has metamorphosed into a bastion of trendy coffee shops and juice bars, fusion-cuisine restaurants, minimalist interiors, designer boutiques, and Mercedes-Benz and BMW dealerships. In the...